It has been almost 3 months that I have not climb any hard route. Last week I have a chance and went back there again to climb on the route that my friend recommended. The route was on the upper link above of Jens's route 5.11a. After warming up on the lower part I decided to continue to put up my draws figure out the moves.
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Always Beautiful |
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Belaying Gee on his on-sight attempt 5.11a |
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Heavy rain on way back!! |
The route was 60 degree over hang about 45 feet from the anchor of lower section to the chain overall 120 feet. This route it's super prominent after I tried on my first attempt. There was three moves of three or four fingers of Under cling after you past three
Undercling then reach your left hand grab very positive crimp and put your right foot on to a positive right foot hold. Then reach you right hand grab on pinch above you left hand. And you might have to set up you left foot up a bit there was a very positive foot hold too!! I fell on this CRUX about 5-6 times of my three attempts today. After that you have to cross over you left hand up to a very bad crimp. The reason why I said very bad because I might have no straight to hold on to this crimp and very good right hand hold. When you get past 60 degree over hang there was very good jugs so you can kind of rested there. It's still hard on the upper part near the anchor especially when you almost run out of your energy. I did tried three attempts and I felt like I progresses on each attempt on the
CRUXES moves. Well, I couldn't make it up to clip the chain today. But I can't wait to get back to get it done in next few weeks definitely. In my experience this route 's
5.12b/c.
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Figure out on the upper CRUXES!! |
After get a break from climbing another activity I love to do is running, With
Snail running team we joined
Mini Marathon at Kawila School 10Km. It was lots of rain in the morning but because of our spirit it doesn't stop us to give up and step back.
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Snail Families!!!! |
Thanks folks for such a great weekend see you guys next event,
SPEED LIMIT and
NEVER GIVE UP.