Bolting & Traditional Climbing:

 Training has been slow for me since I injured my knee in January. Three weeks later I injured my shoulder and ring finger. These injuries, in addition to the poor air quality (the pollution), have slowed down my training energy. As well, work has taken much of my time. Although I have lost some training time, I want to get back to strength training quickly. 

Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures has a new big project. The staff at CMRCA are putting up 12 new routes before the April Song Kran Festival; and 1 of 12 routes is my work! Let me explain how I set up my work. To work, I headed behind the Crazy Horse main climbing area to a spot called Heart Wall (na pha ruae jai). After putting down all the gear I needed, I looked at the rock to see where I wanted to put the route. I had to see where the rock is strong and safe to support a climbers weight; and where it will be interesting and enjoyable to climb. Bolting comes next. Before you bolt, you must clean the route. Sometimes cleaning can take all day or even multiple days at a time.  Next you will climb by top rope must include three people These people include: a tall person, a short person and the route setter.

                                                     Glue-in Bolt

Once you mark the location of the hole, you drill. Once the hole is made a Glue-In Bolts is placed within it. These bolts are quite expensive but strong enough to last 25 years. These bolts are also safe for the environment of the rock

 

                                                          Hangers             

 . Then you use an Hanger bolt if you would like to rebolt again. However, if you are rebolting DO NOT use the same hole again! When the rainy season hits Thailand, the rainwater can come into the hole and cause rust. The rust will not be a safe environment to rebolt in.  Next comes testing. The route must be tested well because in the future as many as 1,000 climbers can climb your route. (Note: It is best to develop your route setting ability by listening to the advice of your peers.)  Bolting has really caught my attention. It is not an easy job but it is a necessary job it you want to make a safe, interesting, and enjoyable route for climbers. If you do it right, people will climb your route again and again. They will love you!

 Traditional climbing is a style of rock climbing where the climber or group of climbers will use all of their fall protection equipment and removes it when a passage is complete. I learned this style of climbing at the craig with  Jeremy Higle. My first climb was fun. I followed what Jeremy taught me to do. 

 Bit I learned that traditional climbing is very different then sport climbing and if you do not know exactly what you are doing it could be very dangerous. Jeremy also showed me how to use a spring loaded camming deivise and bress nut:as well as how to properly work with gears using one hand. Oh my Buddha! It is a lot of work to remember, but I am so excited to do traditional climbing again. I will practice more over time and hopefully get better and better!